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Your First Aquarium
Author: Nathan Chesebro
Published:
May 2009
Many established aquarium
hobbyists will tell you that their beginnings were
far less than ideal. When the beginner gets his/her
first aquarium, there is usually a lot of excitement
involved, and that combined with lack of knowledge
will almost always result in disaster. The key to
preventing such a disaster is research, and is best
performed before starting your aquarium.
This article will give you only a small foundation
to build upon, and you are encouraged to research
the topics discussed here in more depth to expand
your understanding of the information presented
here.
Establish an Image
It is a good idea (and not to
mention, a fun idea) to think about your "dream
aquarium". Ask yourself questions like "What fish do
I want and how many?", and "Do I want a natural
look, or a more playful theme?". Asking yourself
about and visioning your dream aquarium will give
you a good starting point for later research.
Determine the Proper
Location
In the average house, there are
usually only few places that are suitable for
aquariums. Drafty windows, direct sunlight,
heating/cooling vents, and high traffic areas are
not suitable for an aquarium. Placing an aquarium in
such places will increase the frequency that
problems will take place. Also, the weight of an
aquarium must be considered. As a general rule, you
can multiply the number of gallons by ten to
determine a generalized filled weight. In
most situations, aquariums up to 55 gallons will not
present a problem, but for larger aquariums, it is
recommended that you seek the advice of a
professional contractor to ensure your floor is
capable of supporting very heavy aquariums.
Aquarium Size
After you
locate all the suitable locations in your home for
your aquarium you should select a manageable sized
aquarium to place in that spot. Many hobbyists will
say that a larger tank is easier to start with, and
this is based on the fact that it takes much longer
for something to go wrong in a large tank than a
small tank. However, you must keep your resources in
mind. Remember, when you perform 20% water changes
on your tank twice weekly, you will be replacing 40%
of your tank water weekly. On a larger tank such as
a 100 gallon aquarium, you will be replacing 40
gallons of water weekly as opposed to only 4 gallons
from a smaller 10 gallon aquarium. If you live in an
area where water from the tap is not acceptable for
aquarium use, it will become very expensive to
maintain. However, most areas water supply is
perfectly safe after the addition of dechlorinator,
and the cost of water to maintain a large aquarium
are nothing compared to the benefits of having a
large aquarium. Larger aquariums also give you more
options as far as selection of fish reducing your
limitations in that area. Another benefit is fish
feel more comfortable in large aquariums, and will
display interesting behavior rarely displayed in
small tanks, and will significantly reduce the risk
of injury or death in your tank due to territorial
disputes. If you would like more information about
aquarium sizes, view our article on
Aquarium Stands
Aquariums weigh a lot when filled
with water, therefore, it is crucial that you only
use a stand specifically made for aquariums. If you
fail to use a stand made for aquarium use, you run
the risk of the stand collapsing, and that will
result in a huge mess which could end up costing
hundreds of dollars to clean and make repairs to
flooring, but you also could present an electrical
hazard which could total much more in repairs.
Stands are at this time difficult to find online,
but most aquatic supply stores stock stands and can
order just about any size you need.
Equipment
There is a multitude of aquarium
equipment on the market today, and selecting the
right items can be a challenging task. Every
aquarium needs filtration. Filtration comes in the
form of power filters, sponge filters, and canister
filters. Undergravel systems still exist, but are
outdated and inconvenient to maintain. For aquariums
under 40 gallons, a power filter will be sufficient
under an average bioload. For larger aquariums, one,
if not multiple canister filters should be used.
Most tropical fish need water warmer than room
temperature making a heater a necessity. There are
many kinds of heaters on the market, including
submersible, and no submersible models. Others are
thermostatically controlled, others are preset. Our
recommendation for aquarium heating is a submersible
heater with an adjustable thermostat because they
allow for precise temperature settings and are safer
to use. Some types of fish, such as goldfish, are
classified as a "coldwater fish" and do not need a
heater as water at room temperature is sufficient.
Lighting is optional, (unless you grow live plants,
but that is a whole new article) and there are many
inexpensive fluorescent models on the market to
choose from. A tight fitting fixture is the best as
it will reduce evaporation and offers less area for
fish to jump through. Lighting is not necessary for
aquariums, but it makes for better viewing of the
fish in your aquarium at any hour of the day.
Substrate
For most hobbyists, no substrate
is usually the best route. Gravel traps uneaten food
and fish waste, and becomes harder to remove from
the aquarium, negatively affecting water quality. If
you would like gravel as a decoration in your
aquarium, no more than a quarter inch should be
used. Sand is another option, but sand is much
harder to maintain, and too much sand can lead to
growth of anaerobic bacteria, which can produce
gasses that are harmful to the health of your fish.
Cycling
Every aquarium needs to complete
a period of cycling before fish can be added. This
is also known as The Nitrogen Cycle. This cycle
involves a spike in Ammonia, Nitrate, and finally
Nitrite. All three of these chemical compounds are
toxic to fish, and fish placed in a tank in the
process of this cycle will likely not survive the
huge spikes of these chemicals. To prepare for
adding your fish, you should purchase a test kit
that tests for these parameters, and monitor these
levels. You should be performing water changes twice
weekly, and running your filter just as if your tank
were populated. Once all three of these levels have
reached safe levels, you can begin adding your fish.
Maintenance & Care
Water changes are necessary to
remove built-up fish wastes and uneaten fish food
that will produce toxic chemical compounds. The best
method for performing water changes is with a
siphon. Siphons usually come with a large rigid end
to remove debris from gravel, and attach to standard
household faucets. Water changes should be performed
twice weekly and only 20% of the water replaced
under normal conditions. To minimize the amount of
uneaten food, you should only feed your fish the
amount of food they can consume within ten minutes
or less. If you do happen to over feed your fish,
you should take immediate corrective action by using
an aquarium net to remove the excess food.
This article gives you only a
brief summary of starting your own aquarium. It
would be impossible to address each individual topic
in their entirety without overwhelming the new
hobbyist. Look for more information on these topics
in our article library. If you have any questions,
visit our forum and post your questions for answers
more tailored to your needs.
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